Installing recessed lighting

[Bay_area_Hokie]

Bought a "new house", built in 72.

The rooms need recessed lighting and there is an attic above all the rooms.

Let's say I put in six cans in a room's ceiling. I can easily enough wire all six together, but how the hell do I connect it to the switch in the wall? Do I just snake the wire down in between the studs to the switch?


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[awesome guy]

Bought a "new house", built in 72.

The rooms need recessed lighting and there is an attic above all the rooms.

Let's say I put in six cans in a room's ceiling. I can easily enough wire all six together, but how the hell do I connect it to the switch in the wall? Do I just snake the wire down in between the studs to the switch?


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I'm not an electrician, but I have started many electrical fires. That sounds about right to me.

[ieatbacon]

Bought a "new house", built in 72.

The rooms need recessed lighting and there is an attic above all the rooms.

Let's say I put in six cans in a room's ceiling. I can easily enough wire all six together, but how the hell do I connect it to the switch in the wall? Do I just snake the wire down in between the studs to the switch?


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Yes. Drill a 1/4" hole in the 2x4 that is the top of the wall and drop the wire down. I don't know how real electricians do it, but I would knock out the existing box where the switch is so I have room to fish out the wire dropped down from the attic, then I'd replace the box with an existing construction box (one that's held in by pressure from two tabs vs. nailing/screwing into the stud) so I wouldn't have to cut any holes in the wall. Hopefully that makes sense...

[Bay_area_Hokie]

Bought a "new house", built in 72.

The rooms need recessed lighting and there is an attic above all the rooms.

Let's say I put in six cans in a room's ceiling. I can easily enough wire all six together, but how the hell do I connect it to the switch in the wall? Do I just snake the wire down in between the studs to the switch?


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Yes. Drill a 1/4" hole in the 2x4 that is the top of the wall and drop the wire down. I don't know how real electricians do it, but I would knock out the existing box where the switch is so I have room to fish out the wire dropped down from the attic, then I'd replace the box with an existing construction box (one that's held in by pressure from two tabs vs. nailing/screwing into the stud) so I wouldn't have to cut any holes in the wall. Hopefully that makes sense...

Yes, thanks to both of you....this all makes sense to me. Hopefully my homeowners will cover the fire LOL

[Major Kong]

As a PSA I'll add this:
When "we" remodeled our kitchen a couple of years ago my wife decided on recessed lighting over the sink and then on the other side of the kitchen.

They look nice but the bulbs are these 2 prong thingies that you have to push in and twist to get in and get out...it's a pain in the buttocks.

The 40W bulbs only last for a few months so I dropped down to to the 20W bulbs which last just a little longer. Back in April I went with 50W LED bulbs and they're still going strong so now I've replaced all 12 of the bulbs with LED's...I got the bulbs on sale at Lowes still a little pricey but no push/twist/pull and the LED's put out a nice light.

[Bay_area_Hokie]

As a PSA I'll add this:
When "we" remodeled our kitchen a couple of years ago my wife decided on recessed lighting over the sink and then on the other side of the kitchen.

They look nice but the bulbs are these 2 prong thingies that you have to push in and twist to get in and get out...it's a pain in the buttocks.

The 40W bulbs only last for a few months so I dropped down to to the 20W bulbs which last just a little longer. Back in April I went with 50W LED bulbs and they're still going strong so now I've replaced all 12 of the bulbs with LED's...I got the bulbs on sale at Lowes still a little pricey but no push/twist/pull and the LED's put out a nice light.

I was thinking going led too.

I just realized I am going to be crawling around in insulation. Time for a bunny suit. I hate attics. I am sure I will find a rat carcass.


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[USN_Hokie]

As a PSA I'll add this:
When "we" remodeled our kitchen a couple of years ago my wife decided on recessed lighting over the sink and then on the other side of the kitchen.

They look nice but the bulbs are these 2 prong thingies that you have to push in and twist to get in and get out...it's a pain in the buttocks.

The 40W bulbs only last for a few months so I dropped down to to the 20W bulbs which last just a little longer. Back in April I went with 50W LED bulbs and they're still going strong so now I've replaced all 12 of the bulbs with LED's...I got the bulbs on sale at Lowes still a little pricey but no push/twist/pull and the LED's put out a nice light.

I was thinking going led too.

I just realized I am going to be crawling around in insulation. Time for a bunny suit. I hate attics. I am sure I will find a rat carcass.


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Dead birds are even more fun.

[awesome guy]

As a PSA I'll add this:
When "we" remodeled our kitchen a couple of years ago my wife decided on recessed lighting over the sink and then on the other side of the kitchen.

They look nice but the bulbs are these 2 prong thingies that you have to push in and twist to get in and get out...it's a pain in the buttocks.

The 40W bulbs only last for a few months so I dropped down to to the 20W bulbs which last just a little longer. Back in April I went with 50W LED bulbs and they're still going strong so now I've replaced all 12 of the bulbs with LED's...I got the bulbs on sale at Lowes still a little pricey but no push/twist/pull and the LED's put out a nice light.

I was thinking going led too.

I just realized I am going to be crawling around in insulation. Time for a bunny suit. I hate attics. I am sure I will find a rat carcass.


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Dead birds are even more fun.

It's SF, more likely to be lost LSD and a disguarded penis from someone discovering their "real" gender.

[Valencia Hokie]

Bought a "new house", built in 72.

The rooms need recessed lighting and there is an attic above all the rooms.

Let's say I put in six cans in a room's ceiling. I can easily enough wire all six together, but how the hell do I connect it to the switch in the wall? Do I just snake the wire down in between the studs to the switch?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yes. Drill a 1/4" hole in the 2x4 that is the top of the wall and drop the wire down. I don't know how real electricians do it, but I would knock out the existing box where the switch is so I have room to fish out the wire dropped down from the attic, then I'd replace the box with an existing construction box (one that's held in by pressure from two tabs vs. nailing/screwing into the stud) so I wouldn't have to cut any holes in the wall. Hopefully that makes sense...

Yes, thanks to both of you....this all makes sense to me. Hopefully my homeowners will cover the fire LOL

Just did this and would offer a few comments. I'd drill with a 3/8" bit. 1/4" is pretty tight for 14 ga wire. Might pull the sheathing off if it rubs when you pull it through. Drill from the top if you can. Make a HELLA lot a dust otherwise. Drill your wires into the trusses, if you can. If you lay wires on top of the framing and decide to go back with a plywood cover, it will be a bear.

Also, make sure you get the "insulation" models. These things get hot. You need the correct cans. Lastly, make sure you wire from the lead of the run if it's got more than one switch. Think I have that correct. Otherwise one switch will be all screwy and not turn off or on - just makes the light flip to whatever it's already on. I learned the hard way.

[Bay_area_Hokie]

Bought a "new house", built in 72.

The rooms need recessed lighting and there is an attic above all the rooms.

Let's say I put in six cans in a room's ceiling. I can easily enough wire all six together, but how the hell do I connect it to the switch in the wall? Do I just snake the wire down in between the studs to the switch?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yes. Drill a 1/4" hole in the 2x4 that is the top of the wall and drop the wire down. I don't know how real electricians do it, but I would knock out the existing box where the switch is so I have room to fish out the wire dropped down from the attic, then I'd replace the box with an existing construction box (one that's held in by pressure from two tabs vs. nailing/screwing into the stud) so I wouldn't have to cut any holes in the wall. Hopefully that makes sense...

Yes, thanks to both of you....this all makes sense to me. Hopefully my homeowners will cover the fire LOL

Just did this and would offer a few comments. I'd drill with a 3/8" bit. 1/4" is pretty tight for 14 ga wire. Might pull the sheathing off if it rubs when you pull it through. Drill from the top if you can. Make a HELLA lot a dust otherwise. Drill your wires into the trusses, if you can. If you lay wires on top of the framing and decide to go back with a plywood cover, it will be a bear.

Also, make sure you get the "insulation" models. These things get hot. You need the correct cans. Lastly, make sure you wire from the lead of the run if it's got more than one switch. Think I have that correct. Otherwise one switch will be all screwy and not turn off or on - just makes the light flip to whatever it's already on. I learned the hard way.

Thanks Valencia!


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[Bay_area_Hokie]

Bought a "new house", built in 72.

The rooms need recessed lighting and there is an attic above all the rooms.

Let's say I put in six cans in a room's ceiling. I can easily enough wire all six together, but how the hell do I connect it to the switch in the wall? Do I just snake the wire down in between the studs to the switch?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yes. Drill a 1/4" hole in the 2x4 that is the top of the wall and drop the wire down. I don't know how real electricians do it, but I would knock out the existing box where the switch is so I have room to fish out the wire dropped down from the attic, then I'd replace the box with an existing construction box (one that's held in by pressure from two tabs vs. nailing/screwing into the stud) so I wouldn't have to cut any holes in the wall. Hopefully that makes sense...

Yes, thanks to both of you....this all makes sense to me. Hopefully my homeowners will cover the fire LOL

Just did this and would offer a few comments. I'd drill with a 3/8" bit. 1/4" is pretty tight for 14 ga wire. Might pull the sheathing off if it rubs when you pull it through. Drill from the top if you can. Make a HELLA lot a dust otherwise. Drill your wires into the trusses, if you can. If you lay wires on top of the framing and decide to go back with a plywood cover, it will be a bear.

Also, make sure you get the "insulation" models. These things get hot. You need the correct cans. Lastly, make sure you wire from the lead of the run if it's got more than one switch. Think I have that correct. Otherwise one switch will be all screwy and not turn off or on - just makes the light flip to whatever it's already on. I learned the hard way.

Thanks Valencia!


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Success

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[Major Kong]

Success

Nice!

[burgrugby]

We did our kitchen this summer and I put in LED's. Utilitech is Lowe's brand. They were about half the cost of other LED lights and had a better warranty. We went with those and were quite happy. The one downside to LED lights... the transformer. LED's market that the bulbs have a gazillion hours before they go out, but what they don't tell you is that transformers will likely go first. An electrician friend told me that he's seen transformers go within a year with heavy use. You can buy LED lights that allow you change out the transformer without having to buy a whole new light. The other downside is there is a bit of a delay when turning them on. It seems when you flip the switch there's a half second to one second delay before the lights come on (if they're not warmed up yet).

As a PSA I'll add this:
When "we" remodeled our kitchen a couple of years ago my wife decided on recessed lighting over the sink and then on the other side of the kitchen.

They look nice but the bulbs are these 2 prong thingies that you have to push in and twist to get in and get out...it's a pain in the buttocks.

The 40W bulbs only last for a few months so I dropped down to to the 20W bulbs which last just a little longer. Back in April I went with 50W LED bulbs and they're still going strong so now I've replaced all 12 of the bulbs with LED's...I got the bulbs on sale at Lowes still a little pricey but no push/twist/pull and the LED's put out a nice light.

[awesome guy]

We did our kitchen this summer and I put in LED's. Utilitech is Lowe's brand. They were about half the cost of other LED lights and had a better warranty. We went with those and were quite happy. The one downside to LED lights... the transformer. LED's market that the bulbs have a gazillion hours before they go out, but what they don't tell you is that transformers will likely go first. An electrician friend told me that he's seen transformers go within a year with heavy use. You can buy LED lights that allow you change out the transformer without having to buy a whole new light. The other downside is there is a bit of a delay when turning them on. It seems when you flip the switch there's a half second to one second delay before the lights come on (if they're not warmed up yet).

As a PSA I'll add this:
When "we" remodeled our kitchen a couple of years ago my wife decided on recessed lighting over the sink and then on the other side of the kitchen.

They look nice but the bulbs are these 2 prong thingies that you have to push in and twist to get in and get out...it's a pain in the buttocks.

The 40W bulbs only last for a few months so I dropped down to to the 20W bulbs which last just a little longer. Back in April I went with 50W LED bulbs and they're still going strong so now I've replaced all 12 of the bulbs with LED's...I got the bulbs on sale at Lowes still a little pricey but no push/twist/pull and the LED's put out a nice light.

sounds like the AlGore bulbs that take a minute to energize. I'm frankly happy society is able to get LEDs to work in homes. I've used them for years on my headlights (not for a vehicle, but miner looking head light). I've never had a bulb go out and get a month or 2 use out of the batteries. And this is heavy use, on for 15-60 minutes 2 nights a week. I'm suprised they're working in homes because they're perfect for creating beams of light, lighting up a small area intensely. Mine has a 90m range. But it's no good for dispersing light in a wide are like we want in homes. Glad we've solved that problem with them.

[Bay_area_Hokie]

My crown molding is next up.Lots of projects on a 1972 house.

Yes, these are LEDs. Only ten watts each! The light emitted is really clean and really good, but there is a one second delay when you turn them on, if they haven't been on in awhile.


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[Valencia Hokie]

Use MDF and Cope, cope, cope. MDF is sooooo much easier to work with and cheaper. And make sure any joints are 45deg and ON a stud. Otherwise, you'll be really, really sad. Oh, and make sure corners are square and attached before nailing the rest of the piece.

Good luck

My crown molding is next up.Lots of projects on a 1972 house.

Yes, these are LEDs. Only ten watts each! The light emitted is really clean and really good, but there is a one second delay when you turn them on, if they haven't been on in awhile.


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[Bay_area_Hokie]

Use MDF and Cope, cope, cope. MDF is sooooo much easier to work with and cheaper. And make sure any joints are 45deg and ON a stud. Otherwise, you'll be really, really sad. Oh, and make sure corners are square and attached before nailing the rest of the piece.

Good luck

My crown molding is next up.Lots of projects on a 1972 house.

Yes, these are LEDs. Only ten watts each! The light emitted is really clean and really good, but there is a one second delay when you turn them on, if they haven't been on in awhile.


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Valencia,

I tried this stuff from http://crownmoldingsolutions.com

It is a styrofoam deal but it looks pretty goof. You would never know it is not wood. It sucks paint like no tomorrow though. It took two coats of primer and two coats of paint to look good.

They sell you precut corner pieces and it was an easy job....
.


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[Valencia Hokie]

Normally pre built corners don't work because no corner is 90/90/90. maybe the foam is more forgiving. glad it worked for you. did you glue it? dont see how foam would hold a nail.

Use MDF and Cope, cope, cope. MDF is sooooo much easier to work with and cheaper. And make sure any joints are 45deg and ON a stud. Otherwise, you'll be really, really sad. Oh, and make sure corners are square and attached before nailing the rest of the piece.

Good luck

My crown molding is next up.Lots of projects on a 1972 house.

Yes, these are LEDs. Only ten watts each! The light emitted is really clean and really good, but there is a one second delay when you turn them on, if they haven't been on in awhile.


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Valencia,

I tried this stuff from http://crownmoldingsolutions.com

It is a styrofoam deal but it looks pretty goof. You would never know it is not wood. It sucks paint like no tomorrow though. It took two coats of primer and two coats of paint to look good.

They sell you precut corner pieces and it was an easy job....
.


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[Bay_area_Hokie]

Normally pre built corners don't work because no corner is 90/90/90. maybe the foam is more forgiving. glad it worked for you. did you glue it? dont see how foam would hold a nail.



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[/quote]

Yeah, you glue it with some overpriced caulk they sell you.....